The Legend of The Air Max 95
“Dopeboy 95 Air Max On” - Bankroll Fresh
There are only a handful of shoes out there that truly belong in the pantheon of best shoes ever.
Some would say that the list includes the Air Force 1, the Jordan 3, and the Adidas Superstar. Although the list can be subjective, these shoes are often included because of their aesthetic and overall cultural impact.
Those are solid picks, for sure.
In addition to those, I’d argue that there’s one shoe that also makes the list, and it happens to be turning 30 this year. That sneaker is none other than the…
AIR MAX 95.
Ironically, Nike execs weren’t really a fan of the 95 when their team was first presented it.
But as time would tell, the Air Max 95 would become one of the greatest sneakers Nike has ever produced, backed by a legendary tale that is just as inspiring as the sneaker itself.
Nike recently announced that the original Neon colorway would return this year (as a Nike SB collab), so naturally, we have to discuss that today.
If you’ve never heard of the story, gather around. It’s pretty cool.
THE YEAR WAS 1994…
Tinker Hatfield — the famous designer behind many of the classic Jordan sneakers and the Air Max series, had just pivoted away from working on the Air Max line, setting his sights elsewhere.
In his absence, Nike's basketball division was still running things in the building, and the Jordan 11 would soon be on shelves, as would other highly anticipated shoes from competitors.
Conversely, Nike’s running team was trying to figure out how to re-energize its division, and nothing had worked yet.
With Hatfield gone, the duties for designing the next Air Max eventually fell to Sergio Lozano — a budding designer who’d been working at Nike for some time.
He racked his brain, trying to devise a breakthrough design for Nike’s next running shoe. Although the technological innovations that made Nike a household name were well known, no design had broken through in the same way as they had in the 1980s.
But as the story goes…
“I was looking across the lake out into the trees, and I began picturing the process of rain eroding the earth and thought it would be interesting if the perfect product was unearthed by erosion,” - Sergio Lozano
Lozano found new inspiration (evidenced by the quote above) and began to riffle through some of his old sketches, eventually finding one that he’d drawn years prior.
That sketch would become what everyone now knows as the Air Max 95.
IT WAS A SERIES OF FIRSTS FOR NIKE
From a brand perspective, the Air Max 95 represented change within Nike’s running division and for the brand as a whole.
The groundbreaking changes were three-fold:
A. The Volt Color
The neon accents featured on the Air Max 95 were actually the very first time that Nike used that color on one of its shoes.
It was one (of many) points of contention within the building, but after much internal resistance, the team acquiesced to Sergio’s wishes.
With that, the neon Pantone became so popular that it eventually became a flagship color for Nike running shoes in general.
In fact, the recent releases from Air Max Day feature neon green as a nod to the OG 95 colorway that started its popularity.
B. The Features
Nike’s “air” technology is a premier feature of many of its running shoes.
Although the bubble had been featured in prior Air Max models like the Air Max 1 in 1986, The Air Max 95 was the first Air Max sneaker with a “see-through” panel that showed the air bubble technology at work.
See below for reference:
C. The Silhouette
Sergio crafted the Air Max 95 with care, and it was crafted with human anatomy in mind.
As Sergio describes it, the back of the shoe represents the human spine, while the side panels represent the erosion Sergio mentioned in the earlier quote (the erosion, in this instance, is meant to mimic the Grand Canyon). The volt “tips” that flare up from the sides represent a human rib cage, etc.
The black midsole was also controversial at the time, as Nike didn’t like putting Black soles on their sneakers.
However, Lozano argued that a black sole would make the shoes appear cleaner for a longer period of time, as it’d be harder to see dirt accumulate.
The execs eventually gave in, and the iconic black sole was born.
THE AIR MAX 95 IN POP CULTURE
After its initial release, the Air Max 95 caught on in the 90s because of its unique appearance and hefty price tag. Both helped set the wearer apart from their peers. Because many fashion trends start in the streets, the Air Max 95 eventually entered Hip-hop culture.
In press photos, the 95 is worn by groups like Onyx and sneaker aficionados like Ghostface Killah.
The Air Max 95 also found a home in Atlanta and became a staple of the 1990s, eventually being mentioned by artists like Gucci Mane (who was interviewed about it by Complex) and Bankroll Fresh (whose quote is included at the beginning of this article).
Perhaps the most iconic reference to the Air Max 95 occurs in the equally iconic song "Hate It or Love It" by 50 Cent and The Game.
On the record (at the 1:30 mark) Game famously says the bars, “That's 10 years. I told Pooh in '95 I'll kill you if you try me for my Air Max 95s”
The Air Max 95 was also a hit overseas
In the UK, Air Max 95’s also caught on during the 90s. UK football players appreciated Nike’s air technology and were also fans of Hip-hop, which helped spur their interest.
They also became a status symbol, much like in the U.S., because of how expensive they were. In fact, they were nicknamed “110s” — a nod to the price of the Air Max in British Pounds, and if that isn’t enough, crime studies in the UK found that the Air Max 95 was one of the most popular footprints found at crime scenes by forensic teams in London.1
THE COLORWAYS DRIVE THE LORE
Lastly, there are a few collabs & colorways that have also helped to spread the lore of the Air Max 95 — some from Nike and others done in partnership with brands.
Here are a few that are universally regarded as dope.
I. Air Max 95 “Solo Red”
The Solar Red colorway is a favorite of many fans who love the 95 silhouette, and like its brother the OG Air Max 95, it doesn’t “retro” often (meaning Nike hasn’t released it in years).
Nevertheless, if you check sneaker retail sites, this one of the few Air Max 95’s that goes for well over retail price.
II. Nike x Stash Air Max 95
Just last year, Nike partnered with a legendary graffitti artist named Stash for a pair of Air Force 1’s and Air Max 95’s. If you check out a few lists of best collabs from last year from influencers and sneaker pubs alike, this is one of the few that makes the list.
EPILOGUE
The Air Max 95 is probably one of the few shoes that has stood the test of time across generations of sneakerheads, and its success paved the way for Nike’s running division for decades to come.
It’s the reason why they’ve been able to iterate and come up with even newer versions of the Air Max like the Air Max DN with its dynamic air technology.
Moreover, Air Max Day has been a staple for Nike’s brand marketing efforts for the better part of a decade and its something that die-hard consumers look forward to.
This year’s release of the Air Max 95 is one of the most anticipated this year. So, if nothing else, pick up a pair (if you can).
I know I’m gonna cop a pair.
One.